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almost^ev!l
05-13-2006, 09:31 AM
heres a few tip i have found that can help


Desert is an acquired taste. Just like coffee, beer and monkey brain stew, you aren’t born with the innate craving for desert riding. You develop it after little exposures here and there. At first, the sand seems bottomless, the rocks seem dangerous and the cactus—good grief, the cactus. Then it all comes together. Pretty soon a rim without a few good dents just doesn’t look right. And if you aren’t pulling a spine or two out of your hands, you don’t feel like it was a real ride.
Just ask Steve Hatch. He grew up in upstate New York, was raised on ISDE qualifiers and national enduros and then migrated west. After a stint in northern California, he moved to the desert north of Phoenix, Arizona. Now he’s a full-on desert guy. His tutor in the ways of sand and rocks was Arizona hero Destry Abbott. Almost every day, the two of them plunge into the cactus and come out a little battered and dusty, but better riders. We asked Destry to share some of the tips that turned Steve Hatch into a full-on desert guy. Here’s what he said.

SAND
• Stay centered on the bike. If you’re too far forward, the front end will knife. Too far to the rear and you’ll never be able to turn. A good sand rider doesn’t use very much energy simply because he doesn’t move around on the bike that much.
• Go light on the rear brake. You don’t have to brake that hard because the sand will do it for you. As soon as you roll off the throttle, the bike will lose speed on its own.
• Steer with the rear wheel. If you wait until you’re in the turn to open the throttle, it’s too late. You actually have to start gassing it before the turn. Just grab a handful and drift the rear end around. Sand is super forgiving of too much gas. If you were that aggressive with the throttle on hardpack or in mud, you would be asking for trouble.
• Don’t worry about the ruts. Riders see sand ruts from other bikes and try to follow them exactly. It can’t be done, so don’t try. Those ruts aren’t that substantial—just plow through them and make your own.
• More throttle cures almost anything. Sand only gets nasty and unforgiving when you aren’t being aggressive.

ROCKS
• Rocks and sand are the toughest combination because they require two opposite techniques. You need to be aggressive in sand. You need to be smooth and conservative in rocks.
• Aim for the big rocks. If you try to steer around all the rocks, you’ll have a terrible time. Instead, try to go as straight as possible. The small rocks will just sink into the sand. The big rocks you can ride over. It’s those medium size rocks that can be trouble.
• Flat rocks are better than round rocks. The worst thing about rocks is that they move and can cause your front end to wash out suddenly. Aim for the flat-looking rocks—they are more likely to stay put.
• Beware of buried rocks. This is something that time and experience will teach you. Sand has a certain look when it’s covering up something hard—irregular and less fluid. You can hit buried rocks as long as you’re braced and ready. Don’t let them catch you by surprise.
• Rock fields are easier to deal with than sand and rocks—stand up, don’t try to accelerate hard, don’t try to brake hard and don’t try to steer around every rock. Maintain steady speed in a tall gear.
• Keep your toes up. There’s nothing worse than smashing your foot between a rock and the footpeg. You don’t need to use the rear brake or the shifter that often if you’re doing things right, so ride with both toes on the pegs.

CACTUS
• Cactus is a great teacher. You’ll learn to treat it with respect without anyone telling you.
• In the east, you learn to brush foliage out of your way with the bars and with your shoulders. That’s why new desert riders think that cactus spines jump out and grab you.
• Learn to hide behind your handguards. Forget all that elbows-out, attack-position stuff. That’ll just make you bleed.
• If you must hit a cactus, then hit it good—dead center with the bike taking all the spines. A glancing brush with a cholla is the worst kind of encounter because your shoulders and legs take all the spines.
• Some riders carry a hair comb in their tool pack. If a big, spiny ball gets stuck on your arm, you can get it off without touching it. Tweezers are another good idea.
• Set up your bike with slime in the tires (if not foam inserts) and big handguards.
• Just say no. If you sacrifice a millisecond or two by giving cactus more room, then so what?

almost^ev!l
05-13-2006, 09:33 AM
If you are gullible enough, winning is a lot easier. Why? Because the biggest step in the whole process is convincing yourself that you are going to win. If you actually believe that, if you have so much self-confidence that you feel like you belong in the lead, then the hard part is done. You do belong in the lead.
Where does that kind of self-confidence come from? You get it by doing your homework. You have to eliminate your doubts, one by one. If you have trained all week, then your doubts about endurance will go away—but what about the bike? You need to have confidence in that department as well.
Believe it or not, motorcycles are just machines. They aren't grouchy, they do not hold grudges and they don't try to get even with you if you mistreat them. If a motorcycle is put together properly, it has to finish. It doesn't have a choice. So, every racer has to pay attention to his bike during the week as if the entire race depends on it. It does.

BIRTH OF A CHECKLIST

Years ago, when Fred Bramblett first started acting as my tuner, he didn't have that much experience working on XRs. I gave him a short checklist of the things I had been paying attention to between races, and he took care of them. As time passed, I noticed that the list had grown longer and longer. Every time we had some kind of failure, Fred would sit down and think about how it could have been avoided. Now I never worry about a bike failure. Typically, I get over 20 races out of a bike. In that time, I don't have to worry about any major mechanical engine failures, such as broken gears or valves.

DUMB THINGS I HAVE TO DO
1. Clean and degrease. The longer you wait, the uglier it is. If little green sprouts start popping up, you have waited too long, We usually use Hondabrite, a cleaner sold at Honda shops. I think SIOO, Maxima, Clean Up and Simple Green are good cleaners as well. I spray light oil over all the parts that can rust.
2. Strip and inspect. We take off all the plastic so that we can get a good look at things. This also makes it easier to get the bike really clean. We look for cracks in the frame, the pipe or anything else.
3. Inspect wires and connections. The electrical systems on most dirt bikes aren't terribly complicated. You just have to look at three or four connections. They might well be full of water because you just washed the bike, so pull them apart and clean them. Maybe you should put a little dielectric grease on them.
4. Check footpegs and mounts. I bend my pegs a lot by hitting things (rocks, trees, helmets). That's okay; I just don't want the pegs breaking off. Make sure there are no cracks and that all of the pins, springs and things are in place.
5. Clean airbox. Wipe out the inside of the airbox and make sure that all of the clamps on the airboot are in place. The inside of your, engine is a bad place for dirt.
6. Clean your air filter. I use a Twin Air filter. K&N filters also work well but tend to stop airflow completely when they get clogged. The Twin Air will still let air through at that point, even if some dirt gets through. If I get to that point, I still might have a shot at winning the race, even at the cost of a new motor. In really dusty races, I use a foam sock around the outside of the filter. When it gets clogged, I can pull it off by pulling a string while I ride—kind of a tear-off for my filter.
7. Inspect and lube linkage. The XRs have grease fittings on the shock linkage that makes this easy work.
8. Inspect chainguide. This is serious stuff. I have lost races because of not paying enough attention to my chainguide (see the July '93 issue of Dirt Bike). The chain will fall off if the guide is bent, broken or worn.
9. Check pipe. The silencer can crack and its gaskets can get worn. This causes
messy goop to splatter on the frame.
10. Inspect foot controls. I have reinforced the stock shifter so it's more difficult to bend. I also use cables to keep them from getting clogged with brush,
11. Replace tires. I do this every race.
12. Inspect wheels. While the wheels are off, I make sure the bearings are in good shape, and I look at all the spokes and check for tightness.
13. Inspect brake rotors. These have to be flat and they have to be tight. After muddy races, they might be grooved.
14. Grease the axle. If I get a flat during the race, I don't want to struggle with a dry axle that doesn't want to come out.
15. Replace the brake pads. I want fresh brake pads for the start of every race, even if they are only half worn. The thicker the pad, the more insulation there is between the hot disc and the fluid.
16. Clean and inspect fork. I pull the wipers down and clean them off. I look for oil seepage.
17. Flush brake fluid. Brake fluid can wear out, just like anything else. Every race I replace the fluid in the rear brake, especially. If you have ever lost your brakes in a race, you know why, I use DOT 3&4.
18. Lube cables and throttle. Let me repeat that. Lube cables and throttle. Use graphite under the twist grip.
19. Change the oil and filter. If you are really compulsive, you can tear apart your old oil filter and check for metal parts.
20. Flush fuel tank and fuel system. We make sure there's no debris in the bottom of the tank. You can take off the petcock and check that screen, if you like, but you can actually see it through the filler hole. We also drain the float bowl.
21. At this point, we start reassembling the bike. The plastic parts go back on, complete with fresh stickers. Don't laugh; that pays the bills. Fred counted 98 stickers on the bike. I'm looking for two more sponsors, just so it's an even number.
22. Tighten the sprocket bolts and motor mounts. These deserve a little Loctite.
23. Tighten the axle and the pinch bolts.
24. Inspect and tighten rim locks. Don't be afraid that you may break them by overtightening. That means they were going to break in the next race.
25. Check brake lines. If you see anything that looks like moisture around the hydraulic fittings, replace the hose. Like I said, brake failures are no fun.
26. Tighten brake reservoir cap. There is a part on the XR250L that locks the reservoir cap down, I use it on my 600 to keep my leg from loosening the cap.
27. Adjust clutch. Do most of your adjusting in the cable. You should have plenty of adjustment left in the clutch perch, to give you something to adjust during the race.
28. Tighten handlebar and controls. I use Pro Taper bars, and they never slip because of the large diameter. Because I use handguards, I don't have to leave the perches loose on the handlebar. The handguards will protect them in a fall.
29. Look at the spark plug wire. Go ahead, look. Think of how silly you would feel if it was loose and you missed the first lap.
30. Double-check the air filter. Before everything goes together, run your fingers around the back side of the air filter to be sure it is properly seated. It can look perfectly fine from the outside and still have a big enough gap to suck in a lawn chair.
31. Adjust chain. With an O-ring chain, you don't have to lube it. In fact, it's better if you don't. Chain lube just attracts grit that can chew up the O-rings. A thin coating of silicone or light oil just keeps rust away.
32. Tighten seat bolts. Once I had a nightmare that my seat came off in a race. Ever since then I have asked Fred to double-check the bolts. I also use a zip-tie to hold the seat on just in case. Fred might think I'm strange, but, darn it, my seat ain't coming off.
33. Inspect steering head. Get the front wheel off the ground and move the handlebar from side to side. If it grinds, creaks, groans or flops, you need to adjust it. I also safety-wire the steering head nut.
34. Check the engine oil level. Make sure that there's enough oil on the dipstick and that the drain plug is tight.
35. Safety-wire the grips. Nothing is worse than holding your grips, but not your motorcycle.
36. Tape the control levers. I put a little friction tape on my levers. It gives the controls a good' feel, but you have to replace it every few rides.
37. Safety-wire everything else in sight. As time goes by, we have learned to safety-wire more and more stuff. That big 600 can shake off a lot of nuts and bolts. The swingarm nut, the kickstarter, the chainguide and the pipe mount bolts all get the wire treatment.
38. Fill it up. Who knows? You might get busy at the track and forget to put gas in the tank. If you use race gas, it isn't as critical that the fuel be fresh.
39. Start the bike. You should ride it around, up and down the driveway at least. If you have forgotten anything, it should show up. Maybe.
40. Go racing.

CJ7on33's
05-13-2006, 01:54 PM
Get tech tips man. Also can use with ATVs. Worth reading and printing out to put in your garage

Blanco
05-13-2006, 02:06 PM
:eek: CACTUS !? http://bestsmileys.com/lol/5.gif

almost^ev!l
05-14-2006, 01:53 AM
thats what i said!!! it sure does hurt though i went through a cactus when i was young once lemme me tell you its no fun i found those little thorns for weeks

Blanco
05-14-2006, 09:08 AM
I laugh because while offroading in trucks its not an issue. :wiggle tongue:

almost^ev!l
05-19-2006, 07:54 AM
so you openly admit running down a poor and helpless cactus just for fun? wow besides sticking you what did the cactus do to you? lol j/k but dont run over any wildlife or plants for that matter because i dont want any of our few and dwindling offroading places to go :bye2:

Blanco
05-19-2006, 10:01 AM
I never said I hit plants..:nono:
I just comented about we in trucks are protected. :wiggle tongue:

almost^ev!l
05-22-2006, 02:40 AM
:headbang: yes i know but you implied that you did or at least i took it that way

MUDMAD
07-04-2007, 09:25 PM
Great tips. I myself have got a little to close to the almighty cactus in the Red Rock/Dove Springs area. In fact it was in Feb. of this year. Here goes. We were jamming down this fun sand wash with lots of woopty doos. I was the 4th rider out of 12 and the 3rd rider waved me by as he was getting tired. It had been a nice hard charging ride to this point. It was pretty dusty so I would just kinda watch the guy in front of me and if he went to the right/left or in the air I kinda new what to watch for. Well, he waved me by and I jammed by the dust cloud and low and behold there was a right hand turn, that I was going to miss, but then I noticed the really friendly cactus holding out an arm, almost like it was saying come here my friend, I want to give you a big hug :hug:. I couldn't stop in time or turn fast enough and my left shoulder plowed right into the cactus. I jumped up really fast got on my bike and realized only two guys had passed me, yes they stopped to see if I was OK, and I took off like nothing happened. But those dam sticky things were in my arm until I got home and could pluck them out.

locopny
07-05-2007, 11:29 AM
A glancing brush with a cholla is the worst kind of encounter because your shoulders and legs take all the spines.

and a hard swipe imbeds them really well.
I had the opportunity to experience that



once



got to pluck atleast one hundred needles out of my leg. thank god for fully packed tool kits.

a true testiment to knowing where you are gonna land before you hit the take off. blame it on youth and blissfull ignorance of the joy of catus.